4000-Year-Old Fabric from Cave of Skulls is Oldest Known Insect-Dyed Textile

Archaeologists have uncovered an ancient textile dyed with the Kermes vermilio insect, from the Cave of Skulls in Israel. This significant find dates back to the Middle Bronze Age (1954–1767 BC) and provides one of the earliest known instances of textile dyeing using insects. This discovery bridges a crucial gap between ancient literature and archaeological evidence, offering insights into the technological capabilities and economic conditions of early societies.

Excavations in the Cave of Skulls

The Cave of Skulls, located in Nahal Ze’elim in the Judean Desert, has been a site of archaeological interest since its initial excavation in 1960 and subsequent explorations in 2016. The cave’s dry, stable conditions have preserved numerous organic artifacts, including over 430 textiles spanning various historical periods.

Most textiles found there date to the Chalcolithic period (4500–3800 BC) or the Roman period, particularly the time of the Bar Kokhba Revolt in the 2nd century AD. However, among these artifacts, a textile fragment dating to the Middle Bronze Age stood out due to its unique red dye.

The detailed report has just been published in Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports.

Analytical Techniques and Findings

Researchers employed High-Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) to analyze the dye on the textile, revealing high concentrations of kermesic acid, a chemical marker for Kermes vermilio. The textile fragments, measuring 1.4 cm by 1.8 cm and 0.8 cm by 1 cm, demonstrated the use of insect dye, marking an advanced level of textile production and dyeing technology during the Middle Bronze Age.

The Role of Red Dye in Ancient Societies

Red dyes have held symbolic significance throughout history, often associated with luxury and status. In the ancient world, red dyes were derived from both plant and animal sources.

Kermes vermilio, a scale insect living on oak trees, was particularly valued for its vibrant and stable red hues. Collecting these insects was labor-intensive, as they are small and produce low dye content per insect. Despite the challenges in gathering these insects, the resulting dye was highly prized for its quality and color stability.

Left, Kermes vermilio, center, dyed fabric sample. (Sukenik et al, 2024)

Broader Implications of the Discovery

The discovery of the dyed textile in the Cave of Skulls sheds light on the early use of animal-based dyes in textile production, indicating a sophisticated understanding of dyeing techniques and the economic importance of textiles in ancient societies.

The use of such dyes suggests trade networks and the movement of materials and knowledge across regions. The Cave of Skulls textile adds to the growing body of evidence demonstrating the complex and interconnected nature of ancient economies and technologies.

Top image: Sample of the oldest known insect-dyed fabric.      Source: Dafna Gazit/Israel Antiquities Authority

By Gary Manners