Hidden treasures along Australia’s Coral Coast
The natural attractions along Coral Coast Highway from Perth to Exmouth are amongst the best Australia has to offer.
Bookended by the national parks at the Pinnacles and Ningaloo, the journey includes diverse landscapes with pristine beaches, rugged gorges and interesting towns.
The two world heritage areas at Shark Bay and Ningaloo deservedly take top billing but as you head north from Perth, there are many other, sometimes overlooked places, that are well worth a visit.
Camera IconThe Carnarvon Fascine. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
Carnarvon is a good example. The town is often bypassed or just used as a convenient overnight stop as we head north. It gets a bit of a bad rap sometimes but there’s a lot to see, so it’s well worth taking a left turn off the highway and spending a few days exploring its attractions.
I’ve just arrived by plane, and I waste no time.
My first visit is to the Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum where I’m met by retired school of the air teacher and volunteer guide John McCloy for a guided tour of the facility. The Carnarvon Tracking Station was built to support NASA’s Gemini, Apollo and Skylabs programs and played a crucial role in the success of the Apollo 11 moon landing.
John was the first volunteer to work at the museum when it opened in 2012 and he has many interesting stories to tell from meetings with astronauts Buzz Aldrin, Andy Thomas and Gene Cernan and other dignitaries who’ve visited the museum. He recalls a particular conversation he had with Buzz Aldrin about why Neil Armstrong was chosen as the first man to set foot on the moon where Buzz said: “Number one, Neil was the commander of the mission so therefore it was his right. Secondly, he was closest to the door.”
Jokes aside, John recons the real reason was because Buzz Aldrin was military man whereas Neil Armstrong was a civilian, and that fitted better the message that they went to the moon in peace for all mankind.
The museum has loads of fun interactive displays as well as a full-size Apollo capsule where visitors can experience the take-off as the spacecraft is blasted into space.
My next is a visit to the Gwoonwardu Mia Aboriginal heritage and cultural centre where I explore a permanent exhibition called Old People Talking — Listen, Learn Respect, that tells the stories of the five Aboriginal language groups of the Gascoyne region in their own words.
I’m very impressed with the exhibition which is designed to be interactive and incudes audio-visual displays of elders telling their stories. The exhibition’s topics range from Dreamtime stories, to stories about station life and the Stolen Generation. One of the displays has a lovely quote from Stella Tittums recalling camping out under the stars. “The lovely breeze blows through the trees, and it blows around you — you hear the old ancestors whispering to you, telling you stories in certain ways.”
Camera IconRennee Turner of Worramulla Tours in Carnarvon. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
Later I continue my learnings about Indigenous culture and history with a walking tour along the Gascoyne River with Yinggarda woman Rennee Turner.
The vivacious Rennee founded Worramulla Eco Tours to share her passion for her heritage, culture, and country.
Our small group meets her at the heritage precinct near the one-mile jetty for her Carnarvon Walking Tour, and in no time she has our small group captivated with fascinating stories about traditional Yinggarda life and the people’s connection to country.
We learn about diverse topics from traditional bush tucker found in the area to Indigenous culture and astronomy — but Rennee has saved the best until last with a moving sunset ceremony.
Standing by the riverside in the fading light she throws a handful of sand into the calm water, giving thanks to the water serpent Gujurra who according to Yinggarda beliefs created the Gascoyne River and lands.
It’s a moving moment that will stay with me forever.
Camera IconRennee Turner of Worramulla Tours giving thanks to the water serpent Gujurra who according to Yinggarda beliefs created the Gascoyne River and lands. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
Station stays.
Station stays are a great way to experience the diverse attractions along Australia’s Coral Coast and a superb way to learn about life on a working station. Many stations in Australia’s outback have diversified into tourism to provide an alternative income stream. There are two of them close to Carnarvon and they offer quite different experiences.
Camera IconQuobba Station along Australia’s Coral Coast. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
Quobba Station, about an hour’s drive north from Carnarvon, is a spectacular location favoured by surfers and fishermen, but it has several other attractions to keep non-surfing and non-fishing visitors entertained.
When the conditions are favourable, the Blowholes are a sight to see, and during whale migration season, you can see whales cruise along the humpback highway right alongside.
The surf at Red Bluff can reach up to 4m in height so it’s no surprise that it attract surfers from around the world — and thanks to its remote location, the area is also a great destination for stargazers and astro-photographers.
I’m staying in a beachside chalet not far from the Quobba Homestead but it is nearly surrounded by flash caravans kitted out with solar panelsand other modern conveniences and rugged-looking four-wheel-drives with fishing rods on their roofs.
Camera IconA humpback whale breaching in the waters off Quobba Station along Australia’s Coral Coast. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
I feel a bit soft staying in a chalet in this company — but who cares, because it’s nice! The spacious two-bedroom chalet can sleep up to six people and it too has all the mod cons — except a television — but who needs that when you have a beachside location with whales and dolphins cruising by?
Camera IconCheers! Rikki Bremner and Mogens Johansen enjoy a cold beer at campfire while enjoying the sunset at Quobba Station along Australia’s Coral Coast. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
My travelling companions and I sit on the shady veranda enjoying the evening show, and as the sun begins to set, we light a campfire, crack a cold tinnie, and prepare for the night-time stargazing show. Who needs Dancing With The Stars when you can experience the real thing?
Camera IconThe night sky over the beach at Quobba Station. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
The following morning, we are up early for a drive up to Red Bluff.
The first fishermen prepare their rigs for the early catch. Red balloons float skywards and out over the ocean as we drive along the Quobba rocks.
Kangaroos and goats delight my travel companions as the cross the road. The arid landscape looks much the same on either side which begs the question . . . Why do they cross the road? Who knows, but they do. It’s all part of the cycle of life in the outback.
Driving into the Red Bluff campground is totally different to arriving at Quobba Station. It is, to me at least, much more appealing. Pristine white sand beaches, rugged cliffs and of course that big red bluff. It looks so peaceful and idyllic, and it is no wonder it attracts visitors from all over the world.
Camera IconDrone shot of Red Bluff on Quobba Station. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
We stop at the office to chat to campground manager Jim Caldwell. He’s a pretty laid-back guy who originally came here chasing waves during a trip around Australia with his young family. They fell in love with the place and returned when a job as campground manage became vacant. That was 19 years ago, and he is still here.
Camera IconThe view from one of the eco-tents at Red Bluff. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
“I just love this place,” he says as he shows us around the campground. The accommodation ranges from eco-tents to rustic beach shacks and camping. It’s hard not to be smitten by Jim’s casual enthusiasm for the place. It is quite a special place and if you love surfing, fishing, or a relaxing off-grid type holiday, you’d be hard pressed finding anything better in my book.
I also visit Wooramel River Retreat, about 120km south of Carnarvon, to experience a different station stay experience. As it’s name suggests, it is situated along the Wooramel River. You are however not guaranteed to see any water flowing here because, like the Gascoyne River at Carnarvon, it is an upside-down river that runs dry for most of the year.
Camera IconKelly Leonard and Rikki Bremner at Wooramel River Retreat. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
But don’t let that put you off visiting, because this is also a special place. The campground, which includes eco-tents and cabins, is nestled under giant shady gum trees on the backs of the river and guests can relax in four naturally heated therapeutic artesian bore baths from the Birdrong aquifer 240m below.
Maddie Ross, the retreat’s reception manager, has just returned from an early-morning horse ride when I meet her for a coffee at the Upside Down Cafe. She’s relatively new in the job but loving it here. I can understand why. It’s a peaceful setting but it’s also a bit of a quirky place.
Camera IconRikki Bremner hanging out in a gum tree at the Wooramel River Retreat. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
Everywhere you look, there’s lots of funny and creative art made from repurposed farm machinery and junk. Will Barrow greets guests as they arrive at the reception. He is made, as you may have guessed, from an old wheelbarrow. Outside the cafe, there’s an old car that is made safe for kids to play in, and around the grounds there are all kinds of animals made from old barrels, springs and scrap iron.
Guests can explore the historical tip which includes all sorts of treasures from cars to motorbikes, kitchen appliances, farm machinery and old bottles. If trash is not your thing, you can take a walk along the riverbank and enjoy the abundant bird life, or get a taste of station life on a self-guided 4WD drive tour around the station. But in Maddie’s opinion, the whole point of coming here is to do nothing.
Camera IconThe Cactus Garden at Carnarvon. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
I still have a smile on my face as we head north towards Carnarvon again. I’ve had a lot of fun exploring Carnarvon and surrounds during the last couple of days but it feels like I’ve only just scratched the surface. It’s time to fly back to Perth but there’s just enough time for a trip out to the plantations to view the weird and wonderful Cactus Garden outside Rob Westcott’s property on South River Road. The prickly attraction, which began when Rob planted the first cacti 15 yeas ago, shot to prominence after a passing tourist posted a picture on Instagram. Some of the impressive cacti are over 5m tall and well worth a visit.
The trip is complete when I grab a chocolate-coated banana from Bumbak’s . . . Until next time Carnarvon.
fact file
There’s a varied range of accommodation options at Quobba Station and Worramel River Retreat ranging from camping to caravan spots, cabins, and eco-tents. Visit quobba.com.au and wooramel.com.au to find out more.
Carnarvon has several good caravan parks plus motel and hotel-style accommodation. I stayed at Hospitality Carnarvon which is part of the SureStay Collection by Best Western. It is located close by the Carnarvon Fascine at 6 West Street, Carnarvon. Visit carnarvon.wa.hospitalityinns.com.au
To find out about more about Worramulla Eco Tours and Gwoonwardu Mia, head to wooramulla.com.au and gahcc.com.au.
You can find all the relevant info on the Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum and Carnarvon’s other many attractions at carnarvon.org.au
Disclaimer: Mogens Johansen was a guest of Australia’s Coral Coast. They have not seen or approved this story prior to publication.
Camera IconThe coast near the Blowholes at Quobba Station. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconA rainbow forms in the mist from the Blowholes at Quobba Station. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe Blowholes south of Quobba Station on Australia’s Coral Coast. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe view from one of the chalets at Quobba Station along Australia’s Coral Coast. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconCampfire and sunset at Quobba Station along Australia’s Coral Coast. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe night sky over the beach at Quobba Station. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconA humpback whale breaching in the waters off Quobba Station along Australia’s Coral Coast. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe Blowholes south of Quobba Station on Australia’s Coral Coast. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconDrone shot of Red Bluff on Quobba Station. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconDrone shot of the beach at Red Bluff on Quobba Station. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconRikki Bremner enjoys the view from one of the eco-tents at Red Bluff. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconRikki Bremner enjoys the view from one of the eco-tents at Red Bluff. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconInterior of one of the eco-tents at Red Bluff. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconWooramel River Retreat. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe Upside Down Cafe at Wooramel River Retreat. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe Cactus Garden at Carnarvon. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe Cactus Garden at Carnarvon. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe Cactus Garden at Carnarvon. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West AustralianCamera IconThe Cactus Garden at Carnarvon. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian
Source link
#Hidden #treasures #Australias #Coral #Coast