Paul Edwards: Galafrey’s all or nothing approach to winemaking makes this Mount Barker label
Kim Tyrer is an “all or nothing” person. “If I do something, I lean into it,” she confesses. From a small vineyard 10km west of Mount Barker town, Tyrer produces a range of quality wines, championing the regional heroes of riesling and shiraz. She is unabashed in throwing some atypical winemaking at selected parcels of wine and approaches both her barrel-fermented riesling and her whole bunch shiraz, with gusto and commitment to style. The results are expressive wines that wear their heart on their sleeve and are both quirky and delicious.
Discard any preconceptions for this is not your regular riesling. This is riesling “made like chardonnay”. The dual process of barrel fermenting 85 per cent of the juice and encouraging a full malolactic fermentation has built a toasty, creamy richness into a wine style that is usually taut, lean and citric. The textures are rich and broad with flavours of toast, woodsmoke, spice, vanilla, lime and cumquat. Fresh acidity remains and cuts through to cleanse the palate to a dry finish. Approach with an open mind and enjoy the flavour sensation ready to thrill the senses. 93/100
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