Syros: A Culinary Tapestry – Greece Is

Rhoides even recounts extraordinary culinary practices of the time, such as feeding turkeys with nutmeg to make their meat more fragrant or killing red mullets with a pin to prevent the “bitterness caused by spasms of prolonged agony.”

It is no coincidence that Syros, the capital of the Cyclades, was also the birthplace of Greece’s first printed cookbook. I Mageiriki (The Culinary Arts) was published anonymously in 1828 and attributed to Panagiotis Zontanos, a doctor from Kydonies (modern-day Ayvalik). “Flipping through its pages, you’ll find variations of recipes in German, Spanish, English, and Russian styles,” notes Kostas Prekas, a grocer and researcher of Syros’ culinary history. This remarkable manual, containing one hundred recipes, reflects the international spirit of Ermoupoli’s kitchens and their cosmopolitan legacy.

A Touch of Asia Minor

The refugees from Asia Minor, followed later by those from Constantinople, arrived in Syros carrying scars but also beauty, enriching the life and culture of Ermoupoli with their intricate and fascinating ways. Their culinary practices, such as using sugar, molasses, raisins, cloves, cinnamon and an array of other spices in stews and stuffed dishes, introduced the island to new techniques and tastes.

“All this temperament, flair, and elegance that defined their appearance also resonated in their culinary art,” explains Dr. Irini Hardali, herself of Asia Minor descent. “They cooked with passion, creativity, and a genuine love for food.”

The bourgeoisie of Ermoupoli eagerly embraced these influences from Asia Minor, incorporating them into their abundant dining traditions. Dishes became richer, flavors sweeter, and aromas more intricate. These newcomers, who hailed from the opposite side of the Aegean, didn’t favor pork, as was usual in the Cyclades. Instead, they cooked lamb, beef, and poultry, such as guinea fowl.