Geoffrey Chaucer’s “The Canterbury Tales,” a cornerstone of English literature, paints a vivid picture of medieval pilgrimage: a diverse group traversing the English countryside towards Canterbury Cathedral. Centuries later, the spirit of that journey endures, though the means of travel have evolved. Forget horse-drawn carts; today, some are experiencing the Pilgrims’ Way with a decidedly modern twist: sports cars.
The Pilgrims’ Way, largely mirroring the North Downs Way, snakes eastward from London, a tapestry woven from public footpaths, bridle ways, and quiet lanes. While the exact route of the original pilgrims remains shrouded in history, the path traces an ancient escarpment, a silent witness to millennia of human travel long before Christianity’s arrival.
For those seeking a more traditional experience, guided walking pilgrimages, lasting a week or more, offer a chance to connect with the land and its history on foot. Others opt for self-guided treks, using guidebooks and apps to navigate the route at their own pace, whether over several weeks or months. But one intrepid traveler decided to accelerate their journey, blending hiking with cycling and, most notably, an antique British sports car.
This modern-day pilgrim, along with a friend, spent several days hopscotching along the route, hitting major historical and spiritual sites. They sought to capture the essence of Chaucer’s tale , storytelling, camaraderie, and personal reflection , but with a contemporary engine.
Untapped Potential: The allure of the Pilgrims’ Way lies in its blend of spiritual and secular history. Beyond churches and cathedrals, the route brushes against the homes of literary giants like Jane Austen, Charles Dickens, and Charles Darwin. Sissinghurst, the garden of Virginia Woolf’s lover Vita Sackville-West, and Chevening House, designed by Inigo Jones, also dot the landscape. It’s a journey through time, offering glimpses into the lives and legacies of those who shaped British culture. A long term goal for many enthusiasts is connecting with this rich legacy.
One significant starting point for many is Winchester Cathedral, where pilgrims can obtain a “Pilgrim Passport” from the British Pilgrimage Trust, collecting stamps from churches, pubs, and other way stations along the way. The cathedral’s Pilgrim’s Steps, worn smooth by centuries of foot traffic, offer a tangible link to the past. Further along, remote churches nestled amongst ancient yew trees and timeworn gravestones whisper tales of forgotten generations.
At St. Peter & St. Paul Church in Chaldon, a 12th-century “doom painting” provides a vivid, if terrifying, depiction of sin and punishment. The painting serves as a stark reminder of the moral landscape that shaped the medieval pilgrimage experience.
The essence of “The Canterbury Tales” lies in the storytelling and shared experiences of its characters. Similarly, modern pilgrims often find themselves connecting with others along the way. One group encountered at the Harrow pub in Caterham, organized by Kate Dean of the Friends of Southwark Cathedral, embodies this spirit of camaraderie. “When we got to Canterbury, we didn’t want it to stop,” Dean said of her pilgrimage walks, which she’s continued to organize since the early days of post-pandemic freedom in 2021.
Overcoming Barriers: Navigating the Pilgrims’ Way presents its own set of challenges. Finding the correct route can be tricky, with paths often winding and poorly marked. One traveler noted getting lost several times while searching for the “hidden town” of Kemsing, ultimately persevering due to its historical significance. Modern conveniences, however, are never far away. As one traveler observed, “The whoosh of the M2 or M20 motorway is often background to birdsong in the woods. And the weary can always grab an Uber for a ride to the next inn, modern lodging without lice, fleas or livestock sleeping by the kitchen.” Balancing the desire for an authentic experience with the realities of the 21st century requires careful consideration. Time is also a significant barrier. Some might struggle to find the time required for the original Pilgrimage.
The journey is a reminder that modernity and history can coexist. Near Westerham lies Winston Churchill’s country estate, Chartwell, while in Brasted, the White Hart pub displays framed signatures of pilots who defended London during the Blitz. This is a story we need to tell, these juxtapositions highlight the layers of history that permeate the landscape, weaving together the spiritual, the artistic, and the martial.
The Augustine Camino, a guided pilgrimage from Rochester Cathedral to the Shrine of St. Augustine at Ramsgate, offers another avenue for exploration. The Rev. Doug Emmott, a vocations adviser, notes that groups depart from Rochester for Canterbury and other shrines every week. Before setting off, pilgrims gather to hear a prayer, reminding them to travel “unhindered by worldly possessions, simply trusting in you with all that we need.”
The journey often ends at Canterbury Cathedral, a magnificent structure filled with symbolism and history. From the spot where Thomas Becket was murdered to the “miracle” stained-glass windows depicting his healing powers, the cathedral serves as a testament to the enduring power of faith and pilgrimage.
Achieved Success: Dawn Champion, head of community engagement at the British Pilgrimage Trust, emphasizes the importance of intention in the pilgrimage experience. “The key is intention,” she says. “It’s about coming to terms with change or focusing on something. Quite often somebody might set out as a walker, but they finish it as a pilgrim.” Whether traveling on foot, by bicycle, or in a classic car, the modern-day pilgrim seeks something more than just a scenic route. They seek connection, reflection, and a deeper understanding of themselves and the world around them. This pursuit of meaning is a thread that connects them to the pilgrims of Chaucer’s time. Even if they are using modern cars and other vehicles.
- Key Aspects of Modern Pilgrimage:
- Flexibility in travel methods (hiking, cycling, driving)
- Focus on personal intention and reflection
- Blending of spiritual and secular history
- Connection with fellow travelers
- Adaptation to modern conveniences while seeking authentic experience
Ultimately, the Pilgrims’ Way is not just a geographical route; it’s a journey of the spirit, one that can be undertaken in countless ways. Whether you choose to walk in the footsteps of medieval pilgrims or cruise along in a sports car, the destination remains the same: a deeper understanding of yourself and the world around you. “For many pilgrims that would be a much more emotional moment than actual arrival,” Ms. Champion said, after a look at the spire of Canterbury Cathedral over a hill.