Epirus: The Journey From Isolation to Innovation

The weighty legacy of Elisaf

The stately mansion belonging to attorney Niki Lappa’s family served as the headquarters for Greek dignitaries during Ioannina’s liberation from the Turks: “Ioannina, initially steeped in puritanism, later embraced the ambiance fostered by its villagers. However, the Egnatia and Ionian highways ruptured this old order. Likewise, the election of Moses Elisaf, possessing the charisma and vision to revamp the city, marked a pivotal moment. Regrettably, he didn’t live to witness it. It was a profound loss for us.” How did a secluded society produce Greece’s first Jewish mayor? “They elected the Ioannina physician who for decades demonstrated integrity and devotion to his homeland. Not the Jew,” she recounted.

Ιn the historic gathering of Romaniote Jews, others would concur with her observation. Among those seated alongside me were Patra Elisaf, Moses’ widow, community leader Markos Batinos, General Secretary Periklis Ritas and Isaac Lagaris, an esteemed emeritus professor at the University of Ioannina. The Greek-speaking Romaniote Jews represent Europe’s oldest Jewish community, dating back to the 3rd century BC. In 1944, 1,870 Ioannina Jews were deported to Auschwitz, following German orders that encouraged the plundering of homes and seizure of assets. Only 181 returned, with 69 having fled to the mountains with partisan aid or hidden among Christians. Upon their return, many struggled to reclaim their properties and businesses. Today, their numbers have dwindled to fewer than 50 community members.

“My mother-in-law, Moses’ mother, upon her return to Ioannina from Palestine, where she had sought refuge, encountered a woman adorned with one of her jewels. Her only remark to us was, ‘I wish that you never associate with this woman,’” Patra recalls. I pondered if there had ever been a form of catharsis for the events of 1944-45. “We are a close-knit community; everyone knows who did what during that time. It’s a collective secret without ever mentioning names,” Ritas reflects. “On the other hand, the survivors were the silent generation. They couldn’t bring themselves to speak about the atrocities. They simply wanted to survive, to rebuild their lives with whatever means they had,” Batinos adds.

A notable figure from this community was Elisaf, a well-traveled, cultured pathologist and university lecturer. He provided free healthcare services twice a week at the university clinic and kept his phone line open 24/7 for those in need. “He never made his Jewishness an issue,” his wife remarks. “Some of his opponents appeared on television with religious imagery and the Greek flag as a backdrop. His election was a triumph for many. I’ll never forget an elderly woman who told Moses, ‘My doctor, I voted for you, then went to the priest and confessed.’” During his brief tenure, he spearheaded projects such as the restoration of buildings in the old city. Lina Mendoni played a pivotal role in this endeavor. The culture minister also addressed the issue of the Jewish cemetery, a portion of which has been designated as a historic monument.

We strolled between the verdant graves, resembling the white shells of ageless turtles. In 2009, there was an incident of desecration by unknown perpetrators who vandalized tombs and scattered ashes from the Auschwitz memorial crypt. At that time, a symbolic human chain was formed by citizens and representatives of organizations who offered massive support to the Ioannina Jews. Today, the community’s concern is the future: “What will become of the synagogue and the cemetery when the last of us departs from life?”

Following Elisaf’s initiative, Romaniotes from around the globe gather [in Ioannina] for the Yom Kippur celebration. “Only upon his passing did everyone realize his greatness,” says Loukia Tzalla, editor of the historic Ioannina newspaper Ipirotikos Agon, as the publication commemorates a century of existence this year. “The mayor represented a break from cultural isolation. He left behind a profound legacy of selfless devotion to the common good, a legacy that must endure, as we are currently experiencing the most promising phase in decades. Our small town is growing and requires forward-thinking leadership. This is a time of significant opportunities. Will they be recognized by all?”