Karpenisi: A Nature Lover’s Paradise

At 7pm, as the sun begins to set over downtown Athens, the temperature hovers at 21°C. In contrast, just 279 kilometers away in Karpenisi – the mountainous capital of Greece’s least populated region – the thermometer dips to a brisk 13°C. What can this striking contrast be attributed to? 

After a three-hour drive covering 279 kilometers and ascending 930 meters, you’ll soon discover the answer as you approach the end of your journey: the region of Evrytania unfolds before you, a welcoming embrace of dense fir forests and a convenient tunnel that spares you the winding roads. This idyllic route leads directly into Karpenisi, where the landscape transforms into a serene, almost alpine wonderland. To your left, ancient firs and graceful oaks stand sentinel above a river that dances through the lush greenery. To your right, the dramatic silhouette of Mount Tymfristos looms large with its rugged peaks, the highest of which is the historic Velouhi, rising majestically to 2,312 meters. Amidst this breathtaking alpine scenery, you will find the Velouhi-Karpenisi Ski Center, which has played a crucial role in popularizing skiing in Greece since the 1980s, helping put Evrytania, one of Greece’s poorest regions, on the tourist map.

While Greece is renowned for its stunning islands and picturesque coastlines, Evrytania offers a captivating glimpse into the country’s true geographical essence: a remarkable 80% of Greece’s landmass is mountainous. In Evrytania, this figure is even more striking – 100%. The central square of Karpenisi is at an elevation of 1,000 meters, and few areas in the region dip below this height. Instead, visitors will find ample opportunities to ascend even higher.

Evrytania’s advantage lies in its largely untouched, breathtaking natural beauty. Here, you’ll encounter majestic mountains, alongside smaller, more accessible peaks, all enveloped in unspoiled forests of fir, oak, and chestnut trees. The region boasts an intricate web of rivers, tributaries, and springs, as well as the largest artificial lake in Greece, Lake Kremasta, located to the west near the Aetolia-Acarnania border. This enchanting landscape is further adorned with meadows bursting with diverse plant species, ancient stone arch bridges, and traditional villages nestled on verdant slopes. The comforting scent of wood fires permeates the air, and the welcoming locals remain blissfully unaffected by the mass tourism that engulfs more popular destinations.

To truly immerse yourself in the beauty of Evrytania, consider staying outside of Karpenisi itself. Once a charming village, Karpenisi suffered significant destruction from fires during the Italian and German occupations in WW2. The subsequent poverty, exacerbated by the civil war, stunted the revival of its traditional character, although post-war buildings – mostly unremarkable in design – still adhere to the requirement of tiled roofs. Despite this, Karpenisi boasts a solid hotel infrastructure, making it an excellent base for exploring both the region’s well-known villages and destinations, as well as its hidden gems. There is also a variety of accommodations nearby, conveniently located for excursions in the area.

Evrytania is home to several villages that are truly worth exploring. Begin your journey in Klafsi, located just 8 km from Karpenisi. While it’s part of the more touristy cluster along the Potamia Valley, Klafsi’s outskirts still exude a delightful old-world charm. Next, make your way to Krikello, about 30 km away. The drive is stunning, and the village boasts one of the most beautiful squares in Greece. Finally, be sure to visit Fidakia, situated 25 km from Karpenisi. Often hailed as the best-preserved traditional settlement in Evrytania, it offers breathtaking views of Lake Kremasta from the nearby Tsangaralona viewpoint, just 3 km from the village. 

In each of these villages, you’ll find an array of walking trails ranging from low to medium difficulty, or you can opt for the main provincial roads on the outskirts. Evrytania has an extensive network of well-organized trails, most of which are beginner friendly. One of the most popular routes spans 2.5 km, beginning at the majestic Monastery of Proussos. This scenic path leads you past the Stremmenos Charcuterie, a gastronomic gem famous for its handmade prosciutto, before culminating at the breathtaking Black Cave Gorge. This hidden paradise features enchanting waterfalls that form natural swimming pools, all sheltered by the lush canopies of plane trees, holm oaks, and firs. 

As you might expect, the opportunities for hiking, nature activities, and sports in Evrytania are virtually limitless, ranging from rafting and mountain biking to kayaking and skiing. Of course, your experience will depend on the season and the whims of the weather. In a typical winter, snowfall is a common occurrence in Karpenisi and its neighboring villages, creating a picturesque landscape. Another highlight of the region is its rich gastronomy. While the cuisine emphasizes high-quality meats, particularly lamb and goat, there are ample vegetarian options. Be sure to sample the fantastic traditional pies found in every restaurant – stuffed with spinach, zucchini, greens, cheese, and more. Don’t miss the chance to savor the delicious local trout, which is plentiful in the taverns of Gavros, a charming riverside village.

As a final tip, we recommend steering clear of Greece’s popular holiday weekends, such as Christmas and Easter. During these times, the area can become inundated with thousands of visitors, which may impact the tranquility and enjoyment of your experience.