Paul Hobbs Winemaker Dinner at The Royce in Pasadena

Paul Hobbs Wines. Photo Jill Weinlein

Augustina Hobbs, daughter of esteemed winemaker Paul Hobbs, recently hosted an exquisite wine dinner inside the private wine room at The Royce. This Michelin plate designated fine dining steakhouse is inside the luxury Langham Huntington, Pasadena.

While enjoying Chef de Cuisine Jorge Degaldo’s savory amuse bouche, servers opened bottles of 2021 Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling for a tasting pairing. Hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyard from estate grapes in Seneca Lake, NY, this wine is not too sweet, and offers a very pleasing texture. Its delightful fragrant floral aroma is followed by layers of Asian pear, bright citrus, and an enjoyable earthiness.

Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling. Photo Jill Weinlein

The charming and eloquent Augustina, is a graduate of Cornell University, and now a Sales Consultant for Signature Division SGWS. She shared what it was like when she was younger growing up as a winemaker’s daughter. ‘I spent my summers in Napa Valley, Sonoma, New York and Argentina. My fondest memories are walking through the vineyards with my father.’

Augustina’s father named this quintessential Riesling wine Hillick & Hobbs, to honor his parents, and her grandparents. ‘Their last names are on the label. They met while attending Cornell University, near Seneca Lake.’

Paul Hobbs planted grapevines at their family’s farm to produce this wine.

Amuse Bouche at The Royce. Photo Jill Weinlein

While sipping this Riesling, one notices how it rivals any European Riesling, due to Hobb’s modern viticulture in the Finger Lakes. It’s aged and fermented in 100% stainless steel to provide a light wine with bright acidity and fragrant flavor.

This wine also went well with the first course of sliced seared tuna on thin Granny Smith apple slices. It’s enhanced with bee pollen crumble, and a Key Lime and peach conserve for a pop of sweetness and color on the plate. 

‘My father grew up on a farm and attended Notre Dame in pursuit to be a doctor. After graduating with a Chemistry degree, it was my grandfather who convinced my dad to leave medical school, and enroll at UC Davis to be a winemaker,” she said.

During his studies her father developed an interest in Riesling wines, particularly those from Germany, which he considers his first love. He graduated with a Master’s degree in Viticulture and Enology.

Inspired by his upbringing on a family farm, he developed the discipline required of farming by planting, harvesting crops, and selling at farmers markets before school each morning. “Everything is for the sake of the vineyard first, winemaking is second to my father,” said Augustina.

Paul Hobbs Wine. Photo by Jill Weinlein

Bottles of 2021 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley region were poured around the table as the second course arrived. “The grapes for this wine were harvested in the coolness of the evening,” said Augustina. “This seamless slightly oaky Chardonnay offers no oak bombs.”

Taking a sip of this 99% estate-owned white wine, it paired beautifully with Chef Jorge’s green and white asparagus spheres. This dish dazzled with hints of Meyer Lemon, marinated Asian pears, a mache salad and delightful crispy dehydrated Mandarin orange slices.

Asparagus salad at The Royce. Photo Jill Weinlein

“My dad’s thesis was on oak extracts, about the difference between French Oak and California,” said Augustina. When winemaker Robert Mondavi saw this thesis, it caught his attention, and Paul Hobbs started his winemaking career in Napa Valley working side-by-side with California’s wine master Mondavi.

To future Hobb’s career, Mondavi handpicked Hobb’s for the inaugural Opus One team. After launching Opus One, Paul served as a winemaker at Simi Winery before consulting at several famed estates—including Napa Valley’s Peter Michael and Lewis Cellars. When he had the opportunity to consult at Argentina’s Bodegas Catena.

‘His interpreter later became his wife and my mother,’ said Agustina. “While in Argentina, my dad was one of the first to produce Malbec in French barrels.’

She shared how a wine writer from the Seattle Times was invited to Argentina to try her father’s Malbec. A few days later the Seattle Times had an article titled ‘Don’t Cry For Me Argentina,” introducing Malbec to the American market.

Paul Hobbs Wine Dinner. Photo Jill Weinlein

Paul honed his winemaking expertise in improving the health and longevity of the vineyards he owns and visits. He discovered by nurturing grape vines gently, they yield the most interesting wines. These experiences shaped Paul’s determination to craft single-vineyard wines that showcase the unique terroir of California and other fascinating vineyard sites in the world.  “We have 8 wineries in four continents,’ said Augustina.

In 1991, he contacted viticultural titans in Napa and Sonoma, Larry Hyde and Richard Dinner to outsource and purchase five tons of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Eventually, those grapes became Paul Hobbs Winery’s debut releases. 

‘His namesake wines were made with indigenous yeast, no filtration, which was common in the 1980s and early 1990s,’ said Agustina. ‘Today, my dad still works with both vineyards in the pursuit of developing some of the greatest California wines.’

Augustina shared how her father is a perfectionist. “My father’s pursuit to detail and excellence in winemaking, includes his meticulous vines and winemaking facilities. His care in the vineyard is minimal intervention, and his cellars yield world-class, site-specific wines,’ she said.

Beef Carpaccio at The Royce. Photo Jill Weinlein

When the third course of thinly sliced New York carpaccio arrived, Chef Jorge described the plate delivered to each setting at the table. “The cherry puree on the top of the plate has been fermenting for over a year, “ said Chef Jorge. I noticed this process produces such a dark cherry mellow flavor.

This dish was paired with a glass of 2022 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir from grapes harvested along the West Sonoma Coast. It went well with the raw beef slices and flavorful pickled hon-shimeji mushrooms and curly purple mustard frills.

The ruby red Pinot Noir is eye catching, while the aroma excites one’s palate. Taking a sip I enjoyed the bright ripe cherry notes with swirls of red berries with each sip. There is a hint of salinity, backed by fine tannins and a pure fruit finish at the end.

Prime filet at The Royce. Photo Jill Weinlein

Augustina was excited for us to try two different Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignons. The first was a 2020 from Cabernet grapes growing in the newer Coombsville area of Napa Valley. This captivating vintage from the Nathan Coombs Estate provides a deep garnet hue. The luscious bouquet of blackberry aroma provides layers of savory sage and delicate tobacco leaf notes.

This wine paired beautifully with Chef Jorge’s fourth course, a petit filet cooked perfectly with a red center. This course was served with cigar smoked marble potatoes. This extra flavor enhancement to the potatoes provided an aromatic tobacco essence with each bite. On top of the tender beef was a slightly sweet black currant sauce with crispy leeks to complete this course. This dish paired well with the first Cabernet Sauvignon, however I really enjoyed the second Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was a luscious 2011, from the Beckstoffer Las Piedras area of Napa. This velvety refined red wine is mellow with its layers of black cherry and red berry essence. A hint of fresh mint, spices and rose petals are woven into a touch of minerality. It’s has a silky dark chocolate and black tea finish.

Paul Hobbs continues to expand his vineyard footprint, which today grows Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. In California, these vineyards stretch across premium terroirs in the Russian River Valley, West Sonoma Coast, and Napa Valley, including estate-owned sites and vineyards farmed by Paul’s long standing partner growers.

Try some of his estate wines producing some of his most prized, energetic, balanced, and pure tasting wines for an enjoyable meal.