Two Ancient Churches Reopen For the First Time Since the Black Death

For the first time in more than 650 years, two ancient sister churches in Kent, England, have simultaneously reopened, marking a historic event for both locals and visitors. The churches, Dode and Paddlesworth, located just 1.5 miles (2.4 kilometers) apart, were both decimated by the Black Death in the mid-14th century. The reemergence of these sacred sites on August 18, 2024, after centuries of abandonment, is a poignant reminder of their shared past and their significance in local history.

The Rise and Fall of Dode and Paddlesworth

Nestled in the rolling North Downs of Kent, Dode and Paddlesworth churches were once vibrant centers of medieval community life. Built around 1100 AD, during the reign of William the Conqueror, these churches were architectural marvels of their time. Both were constructed under the auspices of Gundulf, the Bishop of Rochester, a figure of significant historical importance who also played a role in the construction of iconic landmarks such as the White Tower of the Tower of London.

The rebuilt church at Dode. (Hywel Williams/CC BY-SA 2.0)

Dode, the smaller of the two churches, and situated next to a Pagan stone circle, served a flourishing village until the Black Death struck in 1359. The deadly plague decimated Dode’s population, leaving the church and its surrounding village abandoned. Legend has it that every inhabitant perished, with the church itself being left untouched and silent for centuries. The church’s priest was relocated to Paddlesworth, where the surviving congregation from Dode sought refuge.

Plaque at Dode Church, Kent. (Public Domain)

Paddlesworth’s St. Benedict’s Church, though also impacted by the plague, managed to survive as a functional religious site. However, its congregation dwindled as the village population declined, leading to a slow, inevitable closure. Unlike Dode, which fell into complete disuse, St. Benedict’s remained partially active until its eventual decline.

Church of St Benedict, Paddlesworth. (John K Thorne/Public Domain)

A Labor of Love: The Restoration of Dode

According to a Metro report, Douglas Chapman, the current keeper of Dode Church, purchased the property about 35 years ago, embarking on what would become a decades-long restoration project.

Chapman describes his journey as a “labor of love,” driven by a deep respect for the church’s historical significance. The church, which had been abandoned as a religious building for over 600 years, required extensive work to restore it to a state where it could once again welcome visitors.

When Chapman first acquired the property, Dode Church had been reduced to a derelict structure, its roof restored in the early 1900s but its interior left to decay. Over the years, the church had been misused, even being converted into a den for illegal activities. Chapman’s restoration efforts involved clearing out the remnants of its troubled past, installing modern amenities like electricity and water, and painstakingly preserving its medieval charm.

Despite these improvements, Chapman has resisted calls to excavate the site for archaeological purposes, particularly the rumored mass grave beneath or near the church. His focus remains on maintaining the integrity and solemnity of the site, allowing it to serve as a place of reflection rather than scientific inquiry.

A Historic Reopening

On August 18, 2024, after years of meticulous restoration, Dode Church opened its doors to the public once more, alongside its sister church, St. Benedict’s in Paddlesworth. The simultaneous reopening of these two ancient sites is unprecedented, offering visitors a rare glimpse into the past and an opportunity to walk the historic trail that connects them.

The reopening event allowed attendees to experience the serene beauty of the North Downs, retracing the steps of medieval pilgrims and parishioners who once walked the same path. Though Dode Church is no longer affiliated with any particular religion, it now serves as a venue for weddings, naming ceremonies, and other events, welcoming people of all faiths.

St. Benedict’s Church, while maintaining its historical roots, remains more accessible throughout the year, with visits by appointment. The reopening of these churches highlights the enduring legacy of medieval architecture and the communities that once thrived around them.

The Legacy of Gundulf and the Tolkien Connection

The story of Dode Church is enriched by its association with Gundulf, the bishop responsible for its construction. Gundulf’s architectural prowess is well documented, with his influence visible in several historic sites across England. Interestingly, Gundulf is also believed to have inspired J.R.R. Tolkien’s character Gandalf in The Lord of the Rings. Tolkien, a professor of medieval history, would have been well-acquainted with Gundulf’s legacy, making the connection between the bishop and the fictional wizard a fascinating footnote in the church’s history.

Today, the reopened churches of Dode and Paddlesworth stand as monuments to resilience, history, and the enduring human spirit. Their reopening offers a unique opportunity for both locals and visitors to reconnect with a past that has been long forgotten, yet remains an integral part of the cultural landscape of Kent.

Top image: Left; Interior of Dode Church. Right; Dide Church exterior   Source: Left; Katariina Jarvinen/Light Trick Photography, Right; Hywel Williams/CC BY-SA 2.0

By Gary Manners