5+1 Must-Visit Byzantine Churches in Downtown Athens

Church of Aghios Eleftherios, “Little Metropolis,” Mitropoleos Square

Tucked beside the grand Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens in Mitropoleos Square, the Church of Aghios Eleftherios, also known as “Mikri Mitropoli” (Little Metropolis) or Panagia Gorgoepikoos (“Panagia [Mother of God] Who Grants Requests Quickly”), is a small yet remarkable Byzantine monument in the heart of downtown Athens. Built on the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to Eileithyia, the Greek goddess of childbirth and midwifery, this tiny church, a mere 7.6m long and 12.2m wide, stands out for its unique architectural elements and rich historical layers.

Unlike typical churches of the Middle Byzantine period, Aghios Eleftherios is constructed almost entirely of “spolia”—reused marble blocks and reliefs from earlier Greek, Roman, and earlier Byzantine structures. Its walls are adorned with a frieze of 90 sculptural panels, blending ancient motifs with Christian symbols. The church’s cross-in-square layout, capped with an octagonal “Athenian” dome, adheres to Byzantine architectural norms, yet its façade, reminiscent of an ancient temple, sets it apart from other churches of the period.

The exact date of the church’s construction is debated, with estimates ranging from the 9th to the early 13th century. It is often attributed to the tenure of Archbishop Michael Acominatus Choniates, who served as the Metropolitan of Athens from 1180 to 1204. However, some historians suggest that the church may have been built later, during the early Ottoman period, due to its use of spolia and references from 15th-century accounts.

Originally dedicated to Panagia Gorgoepikoos, after a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary, the church later became known as Aghios Eleftherios, the protector of pregnant women in Greek Orthodoxy. Throughout its history, the church has served various roles, including housing the public library of Athens in the 19th century. In 1856, it was restored to its original state, with recent additions removed.

Despite its diminutive size, Aghios Eleftherios has played a significant role in Athens’ history, most recently serving as the lying-in-state location for Constantine II, the last king of Greece, in 2023. Today, it remains a treasured link between ancient and Byzantine Athens.